Las Americas

tirsdag, november 16, 2004

Tyveri i Paraguay (Part 2)

Asunciòn, 17. november


To dage i traek skal jeg ufrivilligt pumpe vaerdier ind i denne maerkelige by.

Dagen efter jeg mistede min computer i Asuncións moerke gader, blev jeg roevet for 389.36 kr. Det foregik for et par timer siden.

Denne gang er det ikke en fyr i cowboybukser og sort t-shirt, der fratager mig vaerdier. Denne gang har han pressefoldede bukser og skjorte paa og sidder bag skranken i et vekselhus.

De 389.36 kr er forskellen paa den kurs jeg havde regnet med at faa for mine bolivianske penge (734) og den sindsygt lave kurs (606), som manden med skjorten ville give mig.

Jeg havde - for foerste gang paa denne tur - et stort bundt penge med ind i et nyt land. Da vi stod i Santa Cruz, for foden af Andesbjergene i Bolivia, vidste jeg, at der ville gaa lang tid, inden vi ville loebe ind i en haeveautomat igen. Et engelsk/argentinsk motorcykelpar, som der kommer billeder af senere, havde fortalt os, at hverken det sydlige Bolivia eller det vestlige Paraguay ville tilbyde os denne service. Og eftersom denne del af verden var vores rute, taenkte jeg:

"Hellere have for mange penge end for faa", og haevede op til mit maksimum paa mit Visa-kort paa 2000 danske kroner.

Valuta-erfaringen fra vores tur stoettede min tanke. Der har vaeret tykmavede, pengevekslende maend med ligesaas tykmavede laedertasker ved hver eneste graenseovergang vi har krydset. Uanset hvor lille. Og det har altid vaeret muligt at hive en fornuftig vekselkurs ud af dem.

Men graenseovergangen mellem Bolivia og Paraguay bestod ikke af andet end et lille skur. Og der var ingen tykmavede profitgribbe i miles omkreds.

Jeg fik dog lidt ro paa, da vi ankommer til det foerste tegn paa civilisation i Paraguay efter 8 timers ridt i een stor oedemark. Paa en Shell-station i den vestlige del af landet - langt ude paa landet - kunne jeg betale med bolivianos til en kurs paa 650. Og manden hér fortalte os, at kursen ville vaere meget hoejere i hovedstaden.

Der tog han fejl.

Jeg har nu vaeret rundt hos et utal forskellige vekselhuse, og ingen af dem veksler bolivianos. Det kan kun lade sig goere eet sted i hovedstaden - en hovedstad som jeg efterhaanden er lidt traet af - nemlig hos manden med de pressefoldede bukser og en kurs, der undergaar tankstation-langt-ude-paa-landet-kursen med flere laengder og den officielle kurs med endnu flere.

Ikke nok med at det er tyveri. Det er ogsaa ved hoejlys dag.

Hvis jeg var boliviansk praesident, ville jeg se det som en officiel fornaermelse af baade mine rejsende statsborgere og mit lands valuta og erklaere krig. Det er jo helt forrykt.

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